Colours with Kalyani - part 4
We begin this year with the hope that most things will return to normal before we were hit by the pandemic.
In our earlier conversations on colour we had only talked about what colours we saw in nature. Flowers, birds, etc. We also touched upon the colours depicted in literature.
Let us now see how is that we can create colours by using what nature has to offer us.
Can trees, plants, fruits and vegetables give us colours that we can create and use? And would it not be exciting to see how these colours emerge. And organic colours they would be.
The joy of creating one’s own colours, instead of buying them and not knowing how they were made.
There is a feeling that natural colours can be muddy and dull only. But there are some fantastic hues that make all the pinks, yellows and reds come true. The simple vegetables that one finds in the kitchen can yield so many colours.
What Are Natural Dyes?
As suggested by the name, natural dyeing firstly involves making dyes from naturally occurring ingredients.
And then ,secondly using them to impart colour to yarn, fabric and other textiles.
Mother Nature’s bounty such as leaves, roots, barks, berries, nuts, fungi’s and lichens are all good sources of natural dyes – as are minerals and even some insects such as cochineal !
History shows us that for thousands of years people have been making their own dyes to colour yarn, fleece, clothing and household textiles.
There is something almost magical about using truly organic ingredients that you’ve sourced from the natural environment to make your own dyes. The colours blend effortlessly when you are using them together in a project and everything just ‘looks right’.
And there begins ones journey into making colours
Natural dyeing starts with finding the materials to make your own dye bath.
Lichen, turmeric, and pomegranate will give you yellows through to oranges.
Vegetable gardens can be a wealth of colours for your natural dyes. Raspberries, beetroot, carrots, strawberries, fennel and onions – to name but a few – all produce wonderfully coloured dyes.
The forest is awash with colour!
Oak galls will produce wonderful shades of grey and black. Acorns and dandelion roots will produce simply lovely brown dyes – like you have never seen before.
Ivy and St John’s wart are just another two among all the other wild herbs, weeds and even humble grasses worth watching out for.There are a multitude of naturally dyed yarns, roving’s and fabrics out there and sometimes it is hard to imagine where the natural colour may have come from!
But nature is an amazing thing and with a little chemistry you have a unlimited array of natural colours to choose from,
The range of plants, minerals and vegetables from which you can extract colour and produce natural dyes is endless. And the colours could range from the soft delicate pastels to the very rich colours. You would be happy and so would your yarn.
As with everything in life, some work better than others and produce stronger and longer lasting colours.
Experimenting with whatever you have on hand is recommended and is half the fun of producing dyes. You never know what you will discover!
Some substances will give different coloured dyes, depending on what mordant you use or how long they are processed for. For example logwood mordanted with alum produces a mauve colour, yet when mordanted with chrome gives a lovely blue. Many yellow dye baths will give a greenish hue if used with an Alum mordant, but using chrome or tin will brighten them to a much clearer yellow. Using iron will produce a golden hue of yellow to brown.
Reds: When making red dyes be sure to slowly raise the temperature of the dye vat. Reds have a tendency to go brown when too much heat is applied. The maximum temperature for red dyes is 180c. Never boil!
Cochineal- insects Lac – insects Hibiscus – flowers Madder- roots Red Elderberry – berries Sumac – berries Beetroot – root vegetable Brazilwood – wood St John’s Wort – whole plant Sycamore – bark Cadmium – mineral Avacados- fruit |
Reddish purples: Who can resist the deep, natural colour of purple? Purple used to be the colour of Kings and Queens during medieval times
Red Basil – whole plant Dark red Hibiscus - flowers Daylillies – flowers past their prime Vermillon – mineral Lac – insect |
Bayleaves – leaves Saffron – stamens Marigold – flowers Queen Annes Lace – flowers St John’s Wort – plant Golden Rod – flowers Turmeric – roots or powder Osage Orange- bark or shavings Tea – leaves Brown Onion – skins Larkspur – plant Chromium – mineral |
Brown onion- skins Turmeric – roots Giant Coreopsis – any part of the plant Bloodroot- roots Barberry – any part of the plant Eucalyptus – leaves |
Oak Bark – bark Walnut- Hulls Dandelion- roots Coffee – grinds Yellow dock – plant Ivy – woody stems Golden rod- shoots Tea- leaves Sumac- leaves, powder Birch- bark Brown Clay – clay soil Limonite – clay Octopus/cuttlefish – ink |
Dogwood – fruit Hyacinth – flowers Indigo – foliage Red Maple Tree – inner bark Woad- leaves Mulberries – fruit Elderberries – fruit Blueberries – fruit Cornflower – flowers Blackbeans – dried bean Cobalt – mineral Copper – mineral Murex Snail – trunculus |
Greens: Once again, sometimes the best sources of a particular colour come from exactly where you wouldn’t expect them to! Something with such a striking ocher red as sumac actually produces a wonderful green coloured dye!
Tea Tree – flowers Spinach – leaves Larkspur – plant Red Onion – skins Yarrow – flowers Chamomile – leaves Black-eyed Susans – flowers Nettle – leaves Dyer’s Broom – plant Chromium – mineral |
Grey to Black: And lastly, don’t neglect the often overlooked shades of grey and black.
Oak Galls – Galls Sumac – leaves Walnut – hulls Iris – roots Black Beans – dried bean Titanium – mineral Carbon – mineral |
Now that we have seen the source of different colours, lets see the other ingredients required for dyeing in the next episode.
Earlier episodes of 'Colours with Kalyani':
Part 3: Colours in Poetry & Literature
Part 2: Colours & birds
Part 1: Colours in nature
Thanq so much for this! Was a wonderful read…. Will try my hand at making dyes…
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